ACTION ALERT
Act Now To Save Climbing At Opies Kitchen In Southern Illinois
UPDATED SEPTEMBER 1, 2006 Crab Orchard National Wildlife Refuge (CONWR), more commonly known as Devils Kitchen or Opies Kitchen, is planning to officially shut its doors to all forms of rock climbing. This plan, if put into effect, would close access to the well-known Opies Kitchen bouldering area. But it’s not too late. We are asking every climber who has visited either Southern Illinois or Opies Kitchen to write a letter in hopes of saving this place. Please tell your friends, family and people who hold respected positions to take part.
ALL LETTERS AND EMAILS MUST BE RECEIVED NO LATER THAN FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 29
ACT TODAY
Send a letter or email to Robyn Thorson, Regional Director and let her know what an important and unique resource Opies Kitchen is to climbers. Urge Ms. Thorson to consider rock climbing as a compatible use at CONWR. CONWR is a unique natural area and climbing resource of significant importance for southern Illinoisans.
More letter writing tips:
- •Because rock climbing is a known activity, CONWR is obligated to conduct a compatibility determination upon the request of a user-group
•Importance of the area as a climbers’ destination
•Uniqueness of climbing at Opies Kitchen as compared to other climbing resources in the area (be sure to state why)
•Importance of Opies Kitchen to you personally
•Frequency of So Ill climbing
•Your respect to the wilderness
•Environmentally safe (travel on trail, pick up trash, leave no trace, etc.)
•Your willingness to help
•Rock climbing is an appropriate, sustainable, low impact, form of muscle-powered recreation. The motives of climbers are not distinct from hikers, runners, cyclists, swimmers, hunters, wildlife observers, or other recreational users at CONWR who seek urban escape, exercise and a variety of other enriching outcomes when visiting public lands.
•Contact info (include name and email)
r3planning@fws.gov
Robyn Thorson, Regional Director
Great Lakes-Big Rivers Region of the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service
In the Subject Line, please state: Rock Climbing is a Compatible Use of CONWR lands
Please send a copy to: David Chancellor, SoIll Holds, Inc. david@soillholds.com
Background
In 1997 the Wildlife Refuge Conservation Act was instated mandating that all 545 National Wildlife Refuges must accommodate six particular topics: fishing, hunting, wildlife watching, recreation, environmental education, and interpretation. Last fall the CONWF held an open form for the public to make suggestions, during which our user group, rock climbing, was not represented. Shortly after this, rock climbing was deemed incompatible with the goals of the refuge. More directly it was stated:
Recreation and Technical Rock Climbing:
Background: Crab Orchard NWR is not typically considered a climber’s destination, but some demanding and varied rock climbs can be could in the southern portions on the Refuge. Over the years Refuge visitors have inquired about climbing, but climbing has never been officially permitted. Rock climbing has occurred in the Devils Kitchen and Little Grassy areas. The Refuge has in the past discouraged rock climbing activities such as jumping and diving from the rocks of Devils Kitchen Lake by not permitting swimming in the lake and by closing the area below to the Crab Orchard Dam Spillway to public access. Climbing opportunities can be found at nearby Giant City State Park.
Proposed policy: Recreational and technical rock climbing would not be permitted on the Refuge. This includes free-style rock climbing, rappelling and technical rock climbing. ”
Goal
Unfortunately, we have missed the deadline by a long shot we are coming around to the backdoor and trying to put our foot in. Basically, we are looking for support from the climbing community in Illinois, and throughout the nation.
We are working to gather as many formal letters as we can to build a packet for the people in power of Crab Orchard and for the people higher up. We stand a good chance for success if we work together to help this area stand lively with climbers.



