October 17^th 2005, Boulder, CO. The Access Fund has awarded $30,900 in its third round of grant funding for 2005 bringing the total for the year to just over $100,000 across 23 grants. Awarded three times annually, Climbing Preservation Grants provide financial assistance for local climber activism and protection of the climbing environment. The grants will be distributed for trail improvements, stewardship projects, outreach, and land acquisitions.

“The Access Fund is committed to preserving the climbing experience for present and future generations,” said Shawn Tierney, Access and Acquisitions Director. “We’re proud to fund these important initiatives on behalf of our members and the entire climbing community.”

The following grants were awarded:

Laurel Knob, NC

The Carolina Climbers Coalition received a grant to assist with the purchase of a 50-acre tract near Cashiers, North Carolina containing what is arguably the tallest cliff in the eastern United States – a granite wall over 1,000 feet tall known as Laurel Knob. The purchase opens up a previously closed climbing area.

Red River Gorge, KY

The University of Kentucky Research Foundation received a grant to conduct a research project to test the effects of intentional site burial using geo-textiles on cultural resources found in two rock shelters in the Red River Gorge. The results of this study will provide needed information on whether previously closed areas can be opened up to some types of recreational use following placement of geo-synthetic material.

Castleton Tower, UT

Utah Open Lands received a grant for the implementation of a “wag-bag” sanitation program at the camping and trailhead area of Castleton Tower. The grant will contribute toward the purchase of wag-bags, a dispenser and educational materials.

Shelf Road, CO

The Rocky Mountain Field Institute received a grant to improve the trail from the Bank to Cactus cliff. The current trail was built a number of years ago and was not designed to accommodate the numbers of climbers who now visit Cactus cliff.

Donner Summit, CA

The Truckee Donner Land Trust received a grant to assist with the purchase of 189-acres west of Donner Lake in Billy Mack Canyon. The purchase will expand the Donner Summit climbing area, as the potential climbing opportunities in the Canyon, heretofore closed to climbers, is fantastic.

Indian Creek, UT

The Friends of Indian Creek received a grant to produce an Indian Creek informational and educational brochure. The brochure will focus on providing concise information on camping, private lands issues within the area, and the BLMs management plan for Indian Creek.

Great Barrington, MA

The Friends of East Mountain received a multi-use grant for trail work and maintenance at Mormon Hollow, a survey to determine alternative parking options and possible acquisition of a small lot, and the installation of water bars and ladders at the Main cliff in Great Barrington.

Bigfoot Country Climbers Association, CA

The Bigfoot County Climbers Association received a grant to develop a website. The website will provide local and visiting climbers with information about climbing in the northern California coastal region, access issues, restrictions and closures, stewardship projects and other updates.

Buttermilks, CA

The Eastern Sierra Climbers Coalition received a grant to assist with the purchase of a vault toilet for the Buttermilks bouldering area. Due to dramatic increases in climbing use, installation of a permanent toilet at the Buttermilks is critical to reducing human waste impacts in the area.

Contract Signed to Purchase Laurel Knob, NC

By Sean Cobourn

The Carolina Climbers Coalition is proud to announce that they have a signed contract to purchase the tallest cliff in the Eastern US, the legendary Laurel Knob in Cashiers, NC. This 1200ft granite behemoth has never been legally open to climbing like its smaller sibling Whitesides. There are an estimated 40 multi-pitch lines there, the most famous being The Fathom 5.10.

The CCC has begun a fund raising campaign to raise the $250,000 needed for closing in December. The Access Fund has granted the project $10,000 for which we are grateful for. To help in the purchase of Laurel Knob by making a donation, to join the CCC, or to just admire photos of Laurel Knob, please visit our website at: www.carolinaclimbers.org.

Overshadowed by the Laurel purchase, but still important, is the contract the CCC signed last month to purchase a 24 acre tract of land at Rumbling Bald, NC. This strip of land crosses the ridge "road" and may hold the key to slowing development in this area, which is destined to become part of the newly authorized Hickory Nut Gorge State Park, which the CCC was instrumental in lobbying for earlier this year .

Tommy and Beth Free the Nose

Last weekend Access Fund Ambassador and Board Member Tommy Caldwell and Access Fund Ambassador Beth Rodden made a coveted free ascent of the Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite, CA.

Tommy told us “Beth and I climbed the route both leading about half the pitches. The ones we did not lead we followed free. We worked on the route for about a month prior to our final push. Two days after our team ascent I went back and freed the route in 12 hours with Beth as my belayer.”

The only other climbers ever to climb the Nose free are fellow Access Fund Ambassador Lynn Hill who made the first and second free ascent in 1993 and 1994 and Scott Burke in 1998.

Much deserved congratulations Tommy and Beth!

Friends of Indian Creek Begin Outreach Efforts with the Climbing Community

On October 15 the Friends of Indian Creek (FOIC) held its inaugural event at Indian Creek with Climbing Magazine editor Jeff Achey hosting an entertaining slide show of his adventures in the desert from the 70s and 80s. Thanks to Jeff, Petzl, Black Diamond, Gearheads, Pagan Mountaineering, the Desert Bistro, Metolius, Marmot, Trango, Sharpend Publishing, Climbing Magazine, Sterling, Alpinist Magazine, Restop, International Adventure Tours, and Bill Hatcher, over $500 was raised to support stewardship efforts at Indian Creek.

This event was intended to raise awareness of the Friends of Indian Creek and to spread the word as to how climbers can help preserve Indian Creek’s unique environment and inform climbers about current access issues at this sandstone crack climbing Mecca. Without the involvement and participation of the climbing community, Indian Creek could experience crag and camping closures, the implementation of a fee system, and permanent changes to the area’s distinctive primitive character. The Friends wish to thank everybody who came and supported the event and for taking an active interest in the future of Indian Creek.

For a free membership to the Friends of Indian Creek, email friendsofindiancreek@hotmail.com. Updates about the BLM’s management plan for Indian Creek, and other climbing related notices, can be found at http://www.moabdesertadventures.com/foic.htm.

Idaho's Castle Rocks State Park to Open Zone 2 for New Routes

On October 29th Castle Rocks State Park near the City of Rocks in Idaho will open Zone 2 for new routes using fixed anchors. Castle Rocks was purchased by the state of Idaho a few years ago with assistance from the Access Fund and is the site of one of the country's most progressive climbing management plans. For more background on Castles, see http://www.accessfund.org/pdf/Castles-broch-front.pdf.

For climbers interested in establishing new routes with fixed anchors in Zone 2, an orientation will be held at the Castles headquarters by IDPR ranger Brad Shilling at 9 am on October 29. Brad will outline the boundaries of Zone 2, where specific closures are within the zone, and the specific rules for placing fixed anchors at Castles.

If you want to put in a new route after attending Brad's orientation, make sure to come equipped with the proper hardware: minimum 3/8" diameter stainless steel bolts (at least 2 1/2 " in length), commercially camouflaged hangers (no home-painted jobs), 3/8" chain links, and 3/8" threaded screw links (AKA French links). For more information on the orientation, Zone 2, and anchor hardware, contact Brad Shilling at (208) 824-5757, Brad_Shilling@partner.nps.gov.

BLM Will Charge Campground Fee at “PV Pit” Bishop, CA

To help defray operating expenses, the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Bishop Field Office will begin charging a fee for overnight camping when the Pleasant Valley Pit campground opens for the season this fall. The 75 campsites at the campground are open from November through May. Popular with rock climbers, the campground is located .5 miles off of the Pleasant Valley Road. Over 14,000 campers used the campground last season.

Camping fees, to be collected daily, will be $2.00 per vehicle per night. Golden Age Passes will be honored for discounted campground fees. The maximum length of stay at PV Pit campground will be 60 days. “The Bishop Field Office appreciates the cooperation of the local campers and climbers who have voluntarily supported PV Pit winter campground in the past through donations,” said BLM Bishop Field Manager Bill Dunkelberger. “However, donations and appropriated dollars can no longer support the needed services at the campground.” Fees collected will defray costs of campground host staffing, law enforcement patrols, cleaning, maintenance, repairs and improvements of the popular recreation site. For more information contact Diana Pietrasanta at the Bishop Field Office at (760) 872-5028.

Housing development encroaches upon the Black Cliffs Climbing area. Boise, ID

By Brian Fedigan and Mike Lanza, Boise Climbers Alliance

www.boiseclimbers.org

A housing developer, Skyline Development, has proposed building a large number of homes on approximately 700 acres of land above the Black Cliffs, a popular basalt cragging area 15 minutes from downtown Boise. One popular climbing area at the Black Cliffs, Car Body Canyon, was part of the land purchase. At the invitation of the developer, the Boise Climbers Alliance (BCA) has been meeting with representatives of the developer and working to ensure continued access to the cliffs and the safety of climbers as well as homeowners.

Beyond continued access, among our concerns is that residents of the development recognize the hazard, both to themselves and to climbers below, of loose rock at the cliff tops. We've been told that homes will be set back a minimum of 150 feet from the cliffs. So far, the developer has demonstrated a willingness to listen to BCA concerns and we're optimistic that climbing access will not be affected; but negotiations continue. The BCA will report more later.

Lost Rocks, CA Access Alert!

To ease access concerns, please enter Lost Rocks from the either the Flinthead Ridge walk-in campground area and use the trail there to reach the boulders or from the southern end at High Bluff. Both trails are off the Coastal Scenic Drive. The less gnarly approach is via High Bluff with just a small 4th class section at the very end where it dumps on to the beach a second time at the true southern edge of Lost Rocks. North along the beach from the Flinthead Trail is private land and Yurok reservation land and is off limits to climbing. The Yurok are very much opposed to climbing on their ancestral lands in Redwood National Park/Lost Rocks. Some individuals are choosing voluntarily not to climb there. It is public land so if you do climb there please be very respectful and practice a leave no trace ethic!

Just past High Bluff, about a mile south, is one of the largest sea cliffs in California and is known as Split Rock. Local climbers know this is very important culturally to the Yurok and have stayed off of it. It is quite chosssy and bushwacky as well and would yield very little, if any, worthwhile climbing.

Alternative areas for bouldering without access issues: Osagon Rocks in Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park-hike 8 miles or ride your mountain bike on a sweet/mellow 25 mile loop, just watch out for elk! Houda Pt.and Moonstone County Park-Just north of Moonstone ½ mile is Houda, bring your surfboard too! Fun beach bouldering, just watch out for loose rock here and there.

Footsteps and Promontory, CA Access Alert!

Both Footsteps and Promontory are incredibly scenic sea cliffs with close to 20 routes each up to 80 feet long. Much of the rock is crumbly/sandy greywacke and is quite thrilling to climb on. Add to that the rusted-out stainless and non-stainless protection and anchor bolts on the vast majority of the routes and it is too exciting for many and potentially deadly. The BCCA is in the process of working out an agreement to rebolt with Redwood State Park. This will take a while to go into effect as it requires a CEQA (an environmental/cultural assessment) that takes time and money. At present the trail is overgrown and poison oak infested to Footsteps, and unless you have Removable Bolts for the 5.12's at Promontory it may be wiser to head inland to the limestone to get your sport fix.

Do Something!

Send us your press releases or short write-ups about the success of your Access Fund event or fundraiser. We’ll publish them here as a way to provide ideas which others can use to step up to the challenge of keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment. Send info to media@accessfund.org with TheNameOfYourEvent- Do Something in the subject line.

This year's Climb Smart event in Joshua Tree National Park raised more than $7,000 through a raffle and silent auction to support the Access Fund, Friends of Joshua Tree and Joshua Tree Search and Rescue. Friends of Joshua Tree, along with sponsors Adventure 16, Patagonia, Black Diamond and Wilderness Outings, hosted the ninth annual event where attendees partook in skills clinics and more than 60 volunteers of the 150 event participants took a break from climbing to participate in service projects to mitigate social trails at Headstone Rock and Cyclops rock, two popular areas that had worsened due to heavy climber traffic. http://www.friendsofjosh.org.

Idaho State’s Pocatello Pump pumped up the Access Fund with a successful membership drive and an additional donation of $5 for every event attendee.

Bruce Foster and Joe Goodreau, owners of Rhode Island Rock Gym, challenge climbing gyms to take this challenge and institute this program. Suggest it to your gym:

In November, 1994, we started a belay test charge of $4 per person. 50% of the fee is donated to the Access Fund each month. Put your money where your climbing is- support the Access Fund.

That’s a Wrap- Huge thanks goes to BigUp Productions, Chris Sharma and Prana (for providing airfare) for filming a promotional spot for the boulderProject. All time and expenses were donated by all involved. Look for the finished spot soon on our website and climbing videos.

Laughing for a Cause

Access Fund Ambassador Timmy O’Neil hits the road and is taking the Access Fund along for the ride. If you aren’t familiar with Timmy’s shows be warned- You’ll laugh till you cry and if you bring young kids they’ll have many questions for you afterwards. The tour will help raise funds for the Access Fund so check him out for the Access Fund!

Oct 26th Boulder, CO Boulder Rock Club screening of R2S

Nov 8th Seattle, WA Patagonia Retail, "Brothers on Space" El Cap Show 7pm

Nov 9th Portland, OR Patagonia Retail, "Brothers on Space" El Cap Show 7pm

Nov 18th San Francisco, CA Patagonia Retail, "Brothers on Space" El Cap Show 7pm

Nov 19th Santa Monica, CA Patagonia Retail, "Brothers on Space" El Cap Show

7pm

Dec 1st Bozeman, MT "Brothers on Space" El Cap Show, Fund Raiser for the Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation/ Kumbu School

Dec 8th Silverthorne, CO Patagonia Retail, "Brothers on Space" El Cap Show

Call For Stories

Why do you climb? Why are you a member of the Access Fund? Have you had a personal experience with access issues that you think others could learn from? Why do you volunteer your time? What do you do to help conserve the climbing environment and keep climbing areas open?

Here’s your chance to tell the climbing world your story. Write it down and send it in so that we can all learn from your experiences. Submissions limited to 500 words (if your story takes more, submit an abstract limited to 200 words). Send submissions to media@accessfund.org. Include your name and all contact information so that we can properly credit you and get a hold of you if we need to.

CALL FOR boulderProject WEB DEVELOPER

The boulderProject is about how climbers, the environment and access are all interconnected. It depends on community and the power of the movement. Because of this, we’re tossing the website to you.

We’re looking for a young developer who is passionate about climbing and understands their role in the future of climbing. This project is open to high school and college students only. You must submit samples/links of past web work/projects and anything else you think would help us make a decision. Include your name, email, phone, address, year in school, and a 200 word essay discussing your role in the future of climbing.

This is an unpaid project, though we will set you up with a mondo gear package valued at over $500. This is a great way to build your portfolio, showcase your work, and give back to the climbing community.

E-Submissions only. Send to media@accessfund.org with “yourname boulderProject web” in the subject line.

DONATE YOUR CAR or a DIGITAL VIDEO CAMERA

Unwanted Vehicle? Don't trade it in, donate it to us! Vehicle donation is easy, it's tax deductible and often times yields more to you than the dealer offers in trade in. Click here for more details http://www.v-dac.com/org/?id=943131165

IT'S EASY. You don't have to do anything except fill out the paper work. Once you mail in your paperwork, our service will call and pickup your vehicle within a week. The Access Fund will receive the funds from the sale within 8 weeks.

IT'S TAX DEDUCTABLE. You are entitled to an itemized tax deduction of the fair market value of your vehicle.

It can be worth more to you than the dealer offers in trade in. Compare what the dealer offers against the value of your tax deduction before you trade-in. Plus, we get the net proceeds to work on programs to keep local climbing areas open.

You can donate ANYTHING. Cars, trucks, airplanes, boats— any vehicle can be donated.

For more detailed information on donating your vehicle to the Access Fund please contact Whitney Self, Development Director, at 303.545.6772 x113 or email whitney@accessfund.org.

Do you have a DIGITAL VIDEO CAMERA that you never use?

Send it our way and let us put it to work! We’re looking for a higher-end camera to take with us to events to document all the hard work of AF volunteers (okay, we’ll probably shoot some climbing footage too). So if you have a good working digital video camera sitting in a closet collecting dust, or if you just need a good excuse to upgrade, donate it to the Access Fund. You can take a tax write off and hey, we’ll even name it after you. Email Randy with details: randy@accessfund.org.

ACCESS FUND EVENTS

Check out the latest Access Fund affiliated events

accessfund.org/events/events.php

To streamline the events process, the AF has created a new page on the website under the EVENTS tab where interested people or groups can complete a web form for their event. If your event qualifies, membership materials and goodies may be sent in support. All events the AF is involved with will be included on the event schedule. The deadline for event registration is one month prior to event. To register an event, visit: accessfund.org/events/index.php

VERTICAL TIMES #66 (October Issue) is NOW ONLINE as a PDF!

The October issue of Vertical Times (volume 66) is online as a PDF file for downloading. The issue offers additional news and photos (not included in the Access Fund E-News). It can be downloaded from accessfund.org/news/vt.php (Adobe Acrobat is required).

Viewing Vertical Times online instead of receiving the paper version decreases printing and mailing costs, thus allocating more funds to protect YOUR CLIMBING FUTURE. To take part in this effort, and cease shipment of the Vertical Times to your home, e-mail your name and address to memberservices@accessfund.org with "Remove Vertical Times" as the subject.

Presently, over 2300 members have chosen our online option - a savings of over $11,000 per year to be utilized towards the Access Fund's mission to keep climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment.