E-News 73
November 2006
THE BETA
2006 Access Fund Sharp End
Award Recipients
Lawsuit Derails
Yosemite National Park Management Plans, CA
Park Service Begins
Management Plan Affecting Climbing and Bouldering Near Newhalem, WA
Shelf Road: Cactus Cliffs
Road Closure, CO
Climbing Still Closed
at Cave Rock No Change On Pending Access Fund Lawsuit, NV
ClimberÕs Proposal for LAC
Accepted, KY
New River Gorge GMP
Update; Lawsuit Challenges Proposed Land Development, KY
Call for
Applications to the ACE Board of Directors, CO
Gunks
ClimbersÕ Coalition Update, NY
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NATIONAL NEWS
Todd Skinner,
free-climbing pioneer and hero to many was killed in a climbing accident on
Monday, October 23, 2006 in Yosemite. Our most heartfelt condolences go out to
his family and friends.
A memorial fund has been
set up for ToddÕs wife Amy and children Hanna, Jake, and Sarah: Skinner
Memorial Fund, Atlantic City Federal Credit Union, 704 West Main St., Lander,
WY 82520
Each year the Access Fund recognizes individuals and businesses that
volunteer their efforts and shine above the rest in their commitment and work
on behalf of the American climbing community for preserving climbing access and
the climbing environment. This yearÕs awards and recipients are:
Sharp End Award: For leadership and activism in preserving climbing
access and the climbing environment.
Doug Colwell
Doug is a long time
activist for the climbing community in Idaho and has spent countless hours
helping with the efforts to reopen famed Twin Sisters
to climbing. DougÕs climbing advocacy has included numerous meetings with
IdahoÕs Congressional delegation, organizing climber meetings, and putting
together successful letter writing campaigns. Doug has also worked closely with
park managers at Castle Rock State Park representing climber interests on
various climbing management policies and park development plans. Doug was also
instrumental in obtaining an insurance policy where all others had failed
allowing the Access Fund to complete a user license on behalf of the climbing
community with Resolution Copper Company in Arizona allowing the use of
significant private climbing resources in Oak Flat and Queen Creek.
Randall Leavitt
During his 30+ years of
being at the forefront of American climbing, Randy has always done his all for
access and protection of climbing resources. In short, Randy makes things
happen. As a long time member and supporter of the Access Fund he is often the
leader of cooperative climbing agreements and religiously alerts the Access
Fund to new issues, be they questions with migratory birds or the potential
sale of climbing resources. His leadership in his local climbing community is
strong and steadfast helping to keep what could have been an explosive
situation at El Cajon into one that the community could tackle. Randy is a
standout Access Fund Ambassador, member, and volunteer on behalf of the entire
climbing community.
Christopher Spatz
ChrisÕs first foray into
climbing activism was in the early 1990Õs working to save Princeton, New
JerseyÕs Cradle Rock from a land development threat. He has since served on the
first steering committee for the Gunks ClimbersÕ Coalition (GCC) and is
currently a director-at-large. In his role has director, Chris has acted as the
preliminary liaison for the GCC with Minnewaska State Park, the Open Space
Institute, the Mohonk Preserve, the NY-Department of Environmental
Conservation, and the Town of Rosendale. Most recently, he has played a
significant role in the negotiations to open the Rosendale Water Works
bouldering area and in the creation of a Memorandum of Understanding between
Mohonk Preserve and the GCC.
prAna
Recognized for above and
beyond contributions of staff time, resources and financial support of the
Access FundÕs advocacy work.
prAna proactively pushes
the mission of the Access Fund through their own corporate identity and
channels. They provide resources above and beyond their annual contribution,
which directly impacts the effectiveness of Access Fund staff time and
resources. Examples include subsidizing the Access Fund officeÕs wind energy
offset credits through their groundbreaking Natural Power Initiative showing
corporate responsibility by encouraging consumers to think about their energy consumption
which directly effects our climbing environments. Streamlining the Access
FundÕs apparel program by drastically reducing associated product costs and
staff time. Donating the proceeds of a tee-shirt from their own product line
that communicates the message of the Access Fund
prAna has been
instrumental in the development and growth of the boulderProject helping to
raise money and awareness, offering guidance and direction on the conception
and development of the program from the beginning, and encouraging their
athletes to get involved in the Access Fund.
Urban Climber
Magazine
Recognized for above and
beyond contributions of staff time, resources and financial support of the
Access FundÕs advocacy work.
Urban Climber Magazine
has taken a lead role in delivering the boulderProject message of minimum
impact climbing and importance of understanding how climbers, the environment,
and access are all connected to the new generation of climbers. By contributing
significant time and financial resources to provide a platform for the Access
FundÕs message and interweaving that message throughout all aspects of their
publication, they deliver the Access Fund mission to an audience that would
otherwise be difficult for the Access Fund to affect.
Of their many
contributions from ideas, support, and directly affecting Access Fund financial
resources necessary to further the mission, the following stand out:
Integration of the Access Fund message throughout every single issue of the
magazine from in-kind advertising, Access Fund controlled editorial content, to
Urban Climber Magazine editorial content that directly underscores the mission
of the Access Fund and responsible climbing. Further and significantly, Urban
Climber Magazine underwrote the development of the boulderProject website at a
crucial time in the expansion of the program. Without this support, the message
of the boulderProject would not be reaching its audience.
Land Manager of the
Year: Given to a professional resource manager who has demonstrated a commitment
to preserving climbing opportunities and a progressive approach to public lands
management.
Cal Hite, Park
Superintendent New River Gorge
Cal Hite, who is
retiring in 2007, is recognized for his recent work with climbing activists and
his effective and cooperative management style over the last several years.
Nominated by the local New River Alliance of Climbers for this award, Cal
deserves this acknowledgement for his outspoken advocacy against proposed rim
developments (sentiments shared by climbers) that could forever impair the
unique view shed at the New River Gorge.
Cal Hite was
instrumental in maintaining climbing access when the NPS proposed a mandatory
closure of Endless Wall to support a speculative nesting program for undocumented
peregrine falcons. He has further reached out to the West Virginia climbing
community by helping out with various Adopt-A-Crag events and supporting the
New River Rendezvous climbersÕ festival.
Reese Martin Memorial Award Regional Coordinator of the Year: For leadership and
activism in preserving climbing access and the climbing environment, and
specifically for their volunteer work as an Access Fund representative.
Kellie Rice
As a Regional
Coordinator for the Access Fund, Kellie Rice has always gone above and beyond
the expectations of the position. Not only is she a leader as an activist, she
enthusiastically and it seems innately, promotes the Access Fund at all times.
Her specific efforts include advocating tirelessly for the successful opening
of Madrone Wall near Portland as a County Park, hosting and attending numerous
Adopt-a-Crags, promoting the Access Fund and organizing membership drives and
fundraisers at numerous events around Oregon, involvement with access issues in
southern Oregon at Sprague River and Williamson, and expanding the Access
FundÕs reach throughout all of Oregon. For climbers in Oregon and across the
country, we have all benefited from the passion and work of Kellie Rice.
The Bebie Leadership Award: Presented to AmericaÕs outstanding activist(s)
for the cause of preserving climbing access and the climbing environment.
Ken Yager
Three years ago Ken took
his lifelong passion for climbing and his love for Yosemite Valley and combined
them into one big dream: the Yosemite Facelift, where climbers take the lead
and clean trash off the routes, cliffs, and all the environs of the National
Park to make it a better place and more enjoyable environment for climbers and
the public. The Yosemite Facelift was born and has now grown into the largest
climber led stewardship event (and Adopt-A-Crag) in the nation. Over five
days this fall 1100+ volunteers contributed 9,000+ hours of time to remove over
25,000 pounds (five tons) of trash from Yosemite National park. Beyond the physical
contribution, the amount of goodwill with park managers, other park users and
the leadership shown by this event is without comparison.
Menocal Lifetime Achievement Award: Presented periodically to
individuals who have demonstrated remarkable commitment to the cause of
preserving climbing access and the climbing environment, and who have
contributed substantially to the progress of the Access Fund over many years.
Sean Cobourn
Sean was one of the
founding members of the Access Fund and served on the first Board of Directors.
Since 1991 he has been an Access Fund volunteer Regional Coordinator and only
recently stepped down as president of the Carolina Climbers Coalition.
In the early 1990Õs Sean
negotiated the opening of Table Rock State Park, South Carolina to rock
climbing and helped draft the parkÕs climbing regulations. This was the first
time that climbing was allowed in South Carolina State Parks. In 1994 a
possible closure at Crowders Mountain State Park in North Carolina was
preempted by a meeting arranged by Sean in which over 100 climbers were in
attendance. This meeting catalyzed the formation of the Carolina Climbers
Coalition in 1995.
Perhaps some of his
finest work has been accomplished in the last two years with the creation of
Hickory Nut Gorge State Park in North Carolina which forever protects the
climbing at Rumbling Bald. SeanÕs leadership was crucial in bringing together a
coalition of land trusts and other partners to find the money and the political
will to create this new state park. In 2006 Sean was successful in raising over
$250,000 to purchase the privately held Laurel Knob, saving it from land
development. At 1200 feet high Laurel Knob is the largest piece of granite east
of the Mississippi and an incredible climbing resource which the Carolina
Climbers Coalition will now own and manage, protecting climbing and its
environment forever.
Michael Kennedy
Award: Presented periodically
for outstanding leadership and commitment to the Access Fund mission as a Board
member of the Access Fund.
Dan Nordstrom
Since taking over as
board president in 2005, Dan has quickly put his mark on the Access Fund
asserting his positive presence at public events, trade shows, activist
summits, fundraising events, and just about every venue the Access Fund
participates in. His commitment to actively understand the day-to-day
challenges of the Access Fund has strengthened the work between the Board and
staff and the Access Fund as a whole.
Driving forward new
initiatives, finding the right mix of new Board members and leading the Access
Fund through new strategic plans are a result of DanÕs forward-thinking
leadership. These efforts have required diplomatic bridge-building skills and
the willingness to tackle hard issues while maintaining focus on the Access
FundÕs core mission.
By
Jeff Squire, Regional Coordinator and President Western Massachusetts ClimbersÕ
Coalition
The
Western Massachusetts ClimbersÕ Coalition is in the early stages of acquiring a
9-acre property abutting Farley Ledge, arguably the best piece of rock between
Rumney and the Gunks. The purchase would be for the creation of a permanent
parking lot, approach trail, protection of natural buffers, and to prevent
potential development close to the cliffs.
Farley
Ledge is largely owned by Northeast Utilities, but their site license contains
a recreational stipulation requiring that they provide recreational
opportunities. As a result, access issues have always been over the parking and
approach trails.
Farley
has already been closed four times due to growing crowds and abutting landowner
concerns. The WMCCÕs goal is to put an end to this cycle permanently through
the acquisition of this property. The goal is to raise $75,000 by spring when
the current landowner would like to close.
We
will need everyoneÕs support for this project. This is likely the best thing to
happen for western Mass climbing. Visit our website to learn more or to donate
(www.westernmacc.com). It would be a shame to
loose this opportunity and be faced with new homes less than 100Õ from the
cliff!
On November 3rd a
federal judge ruled on a lawsuit filed by the Friends of Yosemite Valley (http://www.bigwalls.net/climb/camp4yosemite/pages/2COMPLAI2.html) resulting in a stoppage of "all ground
disturbing projects in Yosemite" except for some minor road
maintenance on the Valley Loop Road. What this means is that the National
Park Service (NPS) is prevented from continuing the Lodge
redevelopment project or Camp 4 expansion until a new Merced River
Plan is developed and survives any future litigation. Last Friday's
decision ruled that the NPS
must prepare another plan that protects the wild and
scenic Merced River before proceeding with any construction activities.
The NPS had argued that it should be allowed to proceed with multiple
construction projects within the river corridor.
Under the Wild and
Scenic River Act, Yosemite National park must have a plan to regulate
development near the banks of the Merced. In 1997 the Merced River Plan became
the central focus of the debates about YosemiteÕs future when it flooded and
wiped out campgrounds, lodging and parking areas. The Friends of Yosemite
Valley felt the Merced River Plan failed to adequately protect the river
corridor, and sued. In 2004 the U.S. 9th Circuit Court of Appeals directed NPS
officials to revise their Merced River plan, but according to the recent court
ruling Yosemite National Park failed to redraft the plan in a way adequately
protects the river.
For more, see www.fresnobee.com/263/story/11668.html or www.napavalleyregister.com/articles/2006/11/10/sports/outdoors/doc4553fbe214436934670931.txt. Another hearing is scheduled for next January
but it looks likely that it might take the NPS another two years to finish
their latest Merced River Plan before they may commence work on the Lodge
redevelopment or Camp 4 expansion. For more information, contact
AF Policy Director Jason Keith at jason@accessfund.org.
By
Jason Fields, Regional Coordinator
The US Forest Service is currently developing a recreation management plan for Last
Chance Canyon and as such has requested that all climbing route development be
halted until they have time to draft the plan. The restrictions include no
new bolting and no new trails or campsites. They also request that while
you are in the canyon you refrain from entering Òthe Hermit's CaveÓ and ÒSolstice
CaveÓ because of the possible archaeological resources located within.
Other than the above mentioned restrictions all other climbing remains open.
Please direct any questions to Jason Fields at v15wannabe@yahoo.com
The National Park
Service (NPS) recently announced that it will begin the process of crafting a
General Management Plan (GMP) for Ross Lake National Recreation Area which lies
adjacent to North Cascades National Park 1 ½ hours north of Seattle.
This updated GMP will describe the general path that the NPS intends to follow
in managing the Ross Lake NRA over the next fifteen to twenty years. For
planning details and to submit your own comments see http://parkplanning.nps.gov/projectHome.cfm?parkID=337&projectId=16940
At issue in this plan
will be the future of climbing access to extensive climbing resources in the
Skagit River Gorge which climbers had begun developing in 2001. After the NPS
became aware of the new climbing and bouldering activity they asked climbers to
stop developing new routes and bouldering areas pending a specific climbing
management plan (CMP) that has yet to materialize. This GMP will address all
aspects of ecosystem management and public uses of the NRA and thus the GMP
will take several years to plan for and implement. Local climbers are hoping
for a quicker result, especially after five years waiting for a CMP. In late
October, the NPS completed a series of public ÒworkshopsÓ in Washington State
and British Columbia to assess public opinion on the direction of the plan and
what specific values should be protected.
These meetings were well-attended by Access Fund representatives and
members of the Washington Climbers Coalition (WCC) (www.washingtonclimbers.org). For more information about the details of the
plan and climbing resources near Newhalem, contact the WCC or email Access Fund
Policy Director Jason Keith at Jason@accessfund.org.
Liz
Nichol, Outreach Coordinator, Rocky Mountain Field Institute
Beginning November
2006 the road leading to the Cactus Cliffs climbing area from Shelf Road will
be closed. The BLM has decided to close this steep, un-maintained road due to
liability issues and the requests of private property owners along the road.
Cactus Cliffs, Spiney
Ridge, and The Gymnasium are still open to climbing.
There is a new trail
leading to Cactus Cliffs from The Bank. This is now the fastest, most
convenient way to approach the area. The trail was built in August by the Rocky
Mountain Field Institute with the help of AmeriCorps volunteers and a grant
from the Access Fund. It is approximately 1.5 miles long.
Please park in the
newly expanded parking area at The Bank.
PLEASE DO NOT PARK
ALONG SHELF ROAD.
For more information
contact BLM at 719-269-8500 Thank you for your cooperation.
Human
Waste -Thanks in part to a Patagonia Environmental Grant, the pilot program for
self management of human waste at Indian Creek nears the end of its 3rd
climbing season. For details see the new Friends of Indian Creek (FOIC) website
(www.friendsofindiancreek.org) which was made
possible by generous support from Trango). The success of this trial program is
key to maintaining the unique primitive camping and climbing experience found
at Indian Creek and stave off view-killing ÒimprovementsÓ by the Bureau of Land
Management (BLM). See Timmy O'Neil taking care of business the right way at the
Creek: www.accessfund.org/extras/tic.php
Camping
-
During an Access Fund Adopt-A-Crag in early September, the Friends of Indian
Creek assisted Dugout Ranch tenant Heidi Redd to close approximately 10
campsites along the Bridger Jack Road that are on Dugout Property. This work,
in cooperation with The Nature Conservancy and the BLM, was part of a FOIC
compromise with Heidi for continued climbing access across Dugout Land (such as
access trails to Super Crack, Scarface and several other popular buttresses).
Over thirty designated BLM campsites remain 1.5 miles further down the Bridger
Jack Road, and nearly all other established Indian Creek campsites remain open
for use.
Parking
-
there is no parking at the former Way Rambo parking area. This area has been
posted as closed by the state but apparently someone has removed the sign. The
final 500 yards of that road is now closed to vehicle access so please park
back at the triangle junction where the road goes to Pistol Whipped Wall.
Moving this parking area will limit conflict with the Indian Creek Cattle
Company's seasonal work moving cows and only add a few minutes of extra walking
for climbers headed to Way Rambo.
Information
Brochure - With financial help from the Access Fund the Friends of Indian Creek have
also produced an informational brochure that will guide visitors to camping,
climbing and parking locations throughout Indian Creek. An online version of
this guide can be found here http://friendsofindiancreek.org/ICbrochure.pdf. The brochure will
also explain low-impact practices, the new human waste project and other
specifics of the new Indian Creek Management Plan (http://friendsofindiancreek.org/agencies.php). For more
information, join the Friends of Indian Creek by emailing info@friendsofindiancreek.org or contact Jason Keith at jason@accessfund.org
Nearly 1 ½ years
ago the Access Fund filed its most recent legal brief at the 9th Circuit Court
of Appeals in the on-going attempt to keep climbing open at Cave Rock, a
popular and important climbing area on the shore of Lake Tahoe in Nevada. For
more background see www.accessfund.org/pdf/CRbackgrounder3-28.pdf
In January 2005 at the
district court level in Reno a judge upheld the US Forest Service (USFS)
decision to ban climbing at Cave Rock; however, the district court prevented
the USFS from removing any climbing bolts pending the Access FundÕs challenge.
The AF Board subsequently voted unanimously to pursue an appeal to the 9th
Circuit Court of Appeals. For now, since all briefs have been filed, we
continue to wait for the 9th Circuit Court of Appeals to schedule oral
arguments or render a verdict. The USFS declined to pursue mediation despite
the Access Fund's hope that the conflict may be resolved out of the courtroom.
The Cave Rock climbing
ban remains in place at least for the duration of the lawsuit, and it's
critical that climbers continue to respect the climbing closure while we work
our way through the courts. Violating the climbing closure only harm our case
in court and reduce your chances of climbing at Cave Rock in the future. For
more information contact Access Fund Policy Director Jason Keith at Jason@accessfund.org.
By Bill Strachan,
Executive Director Red River Gorge ClimbersÕ Coalition
At the Limits of
Acceptable Change (LAC) Workshop held on October 24, 2006 in Winchester, KY
climbers presented a proposal regarding standards for climbing in Red River
Gorge. This proposal was accepted by the overall LAC group with no changes
except for the correction of a couple of typographical errors. At the beginning
of the meeting RRGCC Board member Shannon Stuart-Smith made a presentation
first about climbing in general and then specifically about climbing in Red
River Gorge. This was followed with Bill Strachan presenting the LAC standards
developed by climbers.
The proposal developed
by climbers limits the amount of impact that can occur both at a ÒclimbsiteÓ
and at a Òclimbing-areaÓ before a management action must be considered by the
Forest Service. A Òclimb-siteÓ is a staging area at the base of one or more
climbing routes and a Òclimbing areaÓ is a grouping of closely spaced
Òclimb-sitesÓ. A key aspect to this proposal is the concept that the Forest
Service will look at approving new climbing on an area basis instead of the
current route by route basis. The proposal also allows for the installation of
new bolts in areas approved by the Forest Service except for areas located in a
ÒPristineÓ zone. For areas that are located in a ÒPristineÓ zone, existing
bolts will be allowed to remain or be replaced. All existing climbing areas
within the scope of LAC are considered to be approved pending the completion of
surveys for cultural and biological resources. Any new areas proposed by
climbers will have to be surveyed before climbing development can proceed.
Many thanks go to
everyone involved in the climbers working group that put together the proposed
LAC standards for climbing. This working group consisted of current RRGCC Board
members Shannon Stuart-Smith and Dwight Bradburn; past RRGCC President, Jim Holzman;
Chris Carr; Rita Wehner; and myself, Bill Strachan. Many hours were spent in
meetings and in phone calls hashing out the final proposal. Thanks also to
Jason Keith, Access Fund Policy Director for his involvement in reviewing our
work. The non-climbers involved in the LAC process offered compliments on the
thoughtfulness and effort made by climbers in putting together their proposal.
National Park Service
(NPS) continues its General Management Plan (GMP) process for West VirginiaÕs
New River Gorge National River. The GMP is the foundation for decision making
in the park for the next fifteen to twenty years. The purpose of the GMP is to
ensure that the park has a clearly defined management direction for resource
conservation and visitor use that will affect climbing and camping
opportunities. While many climbing specific issues were dealt with in a recent
climbing management plan (http://www.nps.gov/archive/neri/cmp/index.htm), this GMP could override any decisions in the
climbing plan as well as provide for trails and much needed camping for
climbers.
In November the NPS held
a series of public meetings that were attended by representatives from the New
River Alliance of Climbers (www.newriverclimbing.net/), the National Parks Conservation Association,
and the Plateau Action Network who is challenging a local zoning decision to
allow a luxury home development on the rim of the gorge that would
significantly alter the unique viewshed forever. For more information or to get
involved in the GMP process at the New River Gorge, see http://parkplanning.nps.gov/projectHome.cfm?parkID=259&projectId=11040.
The controversial
housing proposal planned for the rim of the New River Gorge has seen a number
of recent legal developments. The Plateau Action Network (PAN) is a coalition
of local interests including the New River Alliance of Climbers. From the
beginning PAN supported a reasonable version of the development proposal that
did not impact the world class view of the Gorge. PAN believes that a high a
quality residential development adjacent to the New River Gorge can proceed in
a way that also protects the valuable resources of the park including the
distinctive viewshed. The NPS agrees with this position, expressing significant
concern that this development should be planned in a way that enhances the
local economy but doesnÕt diminish the asset that keeps people coming back to
the region. See http://www.hintonnews.net/state/060605-shns-nrg.html or listen to a recent NPR story at http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=5498888 to get more background. The boating community
has also been concerned with this potential change to the scenery at the New
River Gorge (http://www.americanwhitewater.org/archive/article/1281/).
Although developers tell
the public that Òno houses would be visible from any ground level point in the
park,Ó a sophisticated, computer generated viewshed analysis produced by the
NPS shows that nearly 80 home sites would be visible along the rim of the
gorge. In addition, the countyÕs decision whether to allow this development
proposal will likely set a president for at least two other development
proposals which could amount to as many as 1,800 new homes. Consideration of
these long term effects is the substance of PANÕs legal appeals which challenge
the decision of a local zoning officer who ruled that the local development
code contained no provisions to consider viewshed despite clear language which
states that Òoutstanding viewsÓ may be taken into account in zoning decisions.
The zoning officer also declared that the public would have to pay the
developer if any building plans were prohibited by the county, even though
existing state law contradicts this position. Accordingly, last summer PAN
joined forces with other organizations including the National Parks and
Conservation Association (NPCA) and brought an unsuccessful appeal to a zoning
board despite an admission of ÒoversightÓ in interpreting the development code
state compensation requirements for county zoning rejections. Nonetheless, the
county zoning board affirmed the decision to approve the development proposal.
Legal gyrations
continued into the fall when PAN and NPCA considered an appeal the Circuit
Court of Fayette County in their continuing quest to preserve the New River
Gorge viewshed. Hoping to prevent this public appeal, the developer threatened
to sue PAN (and some of its individual members) for Òtortuous interference,Ó a
legal action that some believe to be a SLAPP suit (Strategic Lawsuit Against
Public Participation). SLAPP suits can cause a chilling affect on the right of
individuals to participate in the public process. To win this Òtortuous
interferenceÓ lawsuit, the developer would have to show that PAN was acting
with malice; most SLAPPs are ultimately unsuccessful, but nonetheless they are
often threatened because they can intimidate potential plaintiffs into
withdrawing their otherwise constitutional right to petition the government for
Òredress of grievances.Ó
In late October PAN
agreed to withdraw its appeal after the Fayette County Commission unanimously
approved a resolution that responded to many of PANÕs concerns about how the
county considers future development along the New River Gorge. The resolution
Òindicates the need to work closely with public land managers to ensure that
developments moving forward protect our public lands, are compatible with park
values, and reinforces the need to protect scenic views that lure thousands of
visitors annually to New River Gorge.Ó Furthermore, the resolution also
recognized the need to follow the stateÕs process for public engagement in
planning decisions for development surrounding the New. ÒIt's not too late for
the [land development company] to be good neighbors, and remove these
controversial lots from the parkÕs viewshed,Ó said Joy Oakes, Senior Regional
Director of the National Parks Conservation Association. ÒThe ball is in their
court.Ó For more information on
this increasingly complicated legal process that could affect the experiences
of climbers at the New River Gorge, see http://www.plateauactionnetwork.org/.
By
Paul Minault, Northern California Regional Coordinator
Climbers
topping out at Northern California's Lovers Leap may find not the peaceful
alpine summit they expected but a roaring dust cloud of off-road motorcycles
under a proposal by the El Dorado National Forest.
A
designated motorbike trail to the summit already exists, but it currently sees
little motorcycle use. The Forest Service is engaged in a formal motorized
route designation process, which will include the closure of some existing
routes. This process will determine the fate of the Leap trail and other
motorized trails.
If
the Leap trail survives the designation process, then climbers can expect
increased use of this trail due to the closure of other trails and increased
motorized use of the forest in general.
More
information on the Forest Service route designation process is available at
http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado/projects/route/.
The
alignment of the trail shows in dark red on the Forest Service trail map at http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado/documents/route/maps/enf_se_pyramidpeak.pdf
The
Access Fund is preparing a letter to the Forest Service opposing continued
motorized use of this trail and encourages climbers to contact the Forest
Service in opposition to the trail.
Letters,
emails and phone calls should be directed to:
Tony
Scardina, OHV Route Designation Leader, Eldorado National Forest, 100 Forni Rd.
Placerville, CA 95667, ascardina@fs.fed.us, 530-621-5276.
The
Forest Service expects to issue a draft environmental document in December for
the route designation process, and this will be another opportunity for
climbers to submit comments on the proposal.
By
Erik Filsinger, AMC Land Advocacy Chair
Please
keep in mind that Pinnacle Peak Park opens at sunrise and closes at sunset.
Currently the listed park hours are 6:15 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. The hours are posted
at the entrance. If you do not exit the gates of the park prior to closing (or
are within the park before opening) you could be subject to arrest and fines
for criminal trespassing, a felony in AZ.
Please
also remember that the climbing community and the AMC in particular worked very
hard for the opening of Pinnacle Peak Park and to keep climbing there. We
agreed in negotiations to certain conditions, one of which was to respect the
park operational hours, so the facts mentioned above are part of the price we
pay to retain this precious urban climbing area.