California Breaking News
Climbing Opportunities Expanded at Mission Trails Regional Park San Diego, CA (11/19/2008)
By Tom Donnelly, Access Fund Regional Coordinator and Allied Climbers of San Diego member
In September the Allied Climbers of San Diego (ACSD) attended a Mission Trails Regional Park (MTRP) Task Force meeting to voice concerns over recent changes to the Park Master Plan draft. Proposed language included text that specifically limited rock climbing to only one area—the Mission Gorge area of the park to the west-facing side of Kwaay Paay—and officially banned climbing elsewhere within the park limits. ACSD felt this language too restrictive and should be removed to allow consideration of climbing in various areas throughout MTRP.
The MTRP voted to incorporate ACSD’s request to remove the restrictive language that limited climbing; additional language was included that should benefit the climbing community in the future. A programmatic EIR (Environmental Impact Report) is being prepared in conjunction with the MTRP Master Plan which will evaluate other climbing opportunities within Mission Trails Regional Park. This is wonderful news, to say the least, and is the first step in building positive relationships with the MTRP Citizens Advisory Committee and park staff as we look to the future to create additional "responsible" climbing opportunities within the park. Don't plan on any of these additional climbing opportunities becoming available immediately, but do plan on rolling up our collective sleeves as there will be plenty of work ahead as we move forward and assist the park with the planning and operational logistics. Climbers and the park staff will need to work together to make these "opportunities" a reality! Thank you to everyone who signed the petition. Your signatures-your voices-were heard! For more information, see http://alliedclimbers.org/mtrp.php
Santa Barbara Bouldering Area Reopened Following Forest Fire, CA (10/15/2008)
Last July the Gap Fire raged through the mountains above Santa Barbara, CA effectively closing down and partially damaging the popular bouldering areas known as The Brickyard and Lizard’s Mouth. The Los Padres National Forest (LPNF) initially closed the areas down for a month while aircraft applied hydromulch to 1,500 acres to help protect the denuded hillsides during the upcoming rainy season. See www.fs.fed.us/r5/lospadres/conditions. The Los Padres National Forest then extended the closure period to a year “to protect the hydromulch cover.”
The Access Fund contacted LPNF’s Santa Barbara District Ranger to discuss limited bouldering access and confirmed that public access will be allowed to the Lizard’s Mouth bouldering area immediately because that location is near the road and composed almost entirely of exposed rock that does not depend on hydromulching for rehabilitation. However, because The Brickyard is further from the road and in an area with vegetation, LPNF will continue the closure there through next September unless the groundcover recovers faster than expected. For more information, email Jason@accessfund.org.
Fire Spending Impacts Outdoor Recreation (09/16/2008)
Climbing Management Initiatives Delayed
US Forest Service (USFS) funding for many programs vital to Americans' enjoyment of our National Forests is about to disappear as the agency redirects money earmarked for those programs to fight fires. Climbing access is routinely affected across the West because the USFS is forced to divert dollars normally used for recreation management to address forest fire emergencies. In late August the Chief of the USFS Abigail Kimbell announced that the agency has depleted its $1.18 billion fire suppression budget for fiscal year 2008 and has initiated a recall of $400 million from agency programs throughout the nation. The result is that many projects benefiting outdoor recreationists will be put on hold until the end of the fiscal year (October) or until 2009.
Chief Kimbell stated, “Firefighting activity and costs have risen steadily and drastically over the past several years due to the increased need and costs of protecting homes built near natural areas, drought, and climate change.” The agency's fire fighting budget is based on a ten-year rolling average of past fire-fighting costs, which regularly fails to meet the demands of a rapidly changing environment. Read the message from the USFS Chief here: www.fs.fed.us/news/2008/releases/08/fire-impacts.pdf
This $400 million recall will be felt directly by the millions of people that treasure America's national forests as places to climb, hike, bike, paddle, ski, and snowshoe. Collaborative efforts to protect the environment and encourage public enjoyment will be hampered by agency staff's inability to travel to meetings. Recently a formal mediation process between the Allied Climbers of San Diego and the USFS regarding climbing closures to protect cliff-nesting raptors (or the lack thereof) has been stalled because the Cleveland National Forest needed to use its money and staff resources to fight fires. On USFS lands across the country, research efforts will be ceased—right in the middle of the prime data collection season—which will likely delay many agency actions for one year. Grants and partnerships will be frozen and construction and watershed restoration projects will be put on hold.
Forward thinking Federal lawmakers responded to this recurring problem in March of this year by introducing the Federal Land Assistance, Management, and Enhancement Act, also known as the FLAME Act. The FLAME Act would create a supplemental funding source for catastrophic emergency wildland fire suppression activities on federal lands and would require agency leaders to develop a cohesive wildland fire management strategy. The FLAME Act, which has drawn wide support from the outdoor recreation community, passed in the House on July 9th and is now under consideration by the Senate Committee on Energy and Natural Resources. Learn more about the content and status of the FLAME Act by searching www.thomas.gov for H.R. 5541 or “FLAME Act.”
New LCO in Northern California Forges Ahead (07/15/2008)
On June 27, at Sacramento Pipeworks (owned by Access Fund Corporate Partner Touchstone Climbing), climbers from the Sacramento area had their second organizational meeting. CRAGS (Climbing Resource Advocates for Greater Sacramento) will now be the official name of the new Access Fund Affiliate. They chose nine people to be on the Board of Directors and will be filing Articles of Incorporation in the next month.
CRAGS is a nonprofit organization protecting access to Northern California climbing areas; advocating for climbers' interests; constructively addressing the concerns of landowners and other land users; and working to keep climbing areas clean, safe, and healthy.
Access Fund Executive Director Brady Robinson Visits NC and CA (07/15/2008)
Access Fund Executive Director Brady Robinson hit the road this June with site visits to Asheville, North Carolina and San Diego, California. In early June Brady visited with members of the Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC) and Boone Climbers Coalition (BCC) who are working on access issues and opportunities at Grandmother boulders, Asheboro boulders, Laurel Knob, Rumbling Bald, Chimney Rock, and Perry’s Paradise. “It was great to meet with the CCC and BCC. Both local climbing organizations (LCOs) have done so much for climbing access in North Carolina and really are model LCOs, “ said Brady. “And, of course, I enjoyed climbing at my old backyard crags.”
Later in the month, Brady met with members of the Allied Climbers of San Diego at their annual Summer Celebration Fundraising event. While in San Diego, Brady had the opportunity to visit climbing areas within the Cleveland National Forest that are threatened with an extensive proposed closure. (See Access Fund Action Alert: www.accessfund.org/display/page/AA/54.) “Seeing the closure area in person really underscores how overreaching the Forest Service’s proposal is,” noted Brady. “The proposed closure goes well beyond the sensible bird nesting closures in place at climbing areas across the country. There is plenty of room for climbers and birds of prey in the Cleveland National Forest. The climbers I met with are committed to protecting raptor habitat and would support a more focused management strategy. I am confident we will be able to find a good compromise.”
Yosemite National Park Revises Schedule for Merced River Plan, CA (06/16/2008)
Yosemite National Park (YNP) is proposing a revised planning schedule for the Merced River Plan that could restrict climbing and camping access in Yosemite Valley. This plan could limit the number of campsites in the Valley and, in a worst case scenario, restrict climbing access to some crags along the river. This new project schedule, if approved by the court, will be completed in December 2011 and is in response to a Ninth Circuit Court of Appeals ruling requiring YNP to impose numeric limits on visitors in the Merced River corridor. For more background on this issue, see www.accessfund.org/pubs/en/e-news90.htm#_Two_Access_Lawsuits.
The court’s order directs YNP to establish new wilderness trailhead quotas and numeric limits in the management corridor (approximately ˝ mile on each side of the river) to determine whether Wild and Scenic River values are protected and enhanced. YNP will now transition to site-specific planning in Yosemite Valley to analyze specific types and levels of public use, as well as evaluate the appropriateness of specific facilities.
The new December 2011 completion date envisions that the NPS will re-examine site-specific planning decisions for many areas formerly addressed by the 2000 Yosemite Valley Plan. A public scoping period will begin as soon as possible, and publication and distribution of preliminary alternatives will begin in summer of 2009. By January 2011, YNP will publish a Draft Merced River Plan. Both of these planning phases will be open for public review and comment with a final plan decision due around December 2011.
To stay tuned to the progress of the plan and to get involved, see www.nps.gov/yose/parkmgmt/newmrp.htm. The Access Fund will continue to monitor the progress of the Merced River Plan to ensure that climbing access is not unreasonably restricted. For more information email jason@accessfund.org.
Two Access Lawsuits Decided: Yosemite National Park, CA (04/15/2008)
On February 21, 2008 the Ninth Circuit Court of Appeals ruled in favor of the National Park Service in the case of Terbush v. U.S.
Peter Terbush died from rock fall on Glacier Point Apron in 1999 and this lawsuit concerned whether the Park Service was negligent in failing to warn of the dangers present on the Apron. The government countered that they are immune from such lawsuits because Congress has given rangers discretion on when and where to warn the public of potential dangers. The case was further complicated by the fact that a wastewater treatment plant facility had allegedly been discharging large amounts of water from the top of the Apron prior to Terbush’s death, potentially creating an unnatural hazardous condition.
As a policy matter, this case is of interest to climbers because if the Park Service had lost, climbing policies could have become much more restrictive in Yosemite and anywhere that the government allows public access to potentially hazardous locations. If the Park Service had been held responsible for the safety of park visitors, they would have likely reduced access opportunities, especially to potentially dangerous spots, such as climbing areas.
The Terbush lawsuit represents an unusual case, however, because the question remains whether the hazards on the Apron that killed Peter Terbush were natural or whether they were caused by a mismanaged wastewater treatment plant that sent a large volume of water down onto a popular climbing area. The record from the District Court did not have enough information for the Appeals Court to decide whether the Park Service was negligent in their wastewater treatment plant facility, and, accordingly, the Appeals Court has ordered the case back to the District Court to decide this issue. However, at this point it seems unlikely that the Terbush case will affect climbing management policy in Yosemite or elsewhere.
On March 27, 2008 in Friends of Yosemite Valley v. Kempthorne, another lawsuit potentially involving public access in Yosemite, the court ruled against the Park Service. In this case the Ninth Circuit Court of Appeals upheld a federal district judge’s decision in 2006 that Yosemite National Park failed to adequately address limits on public use near the Merced Wild and Scenic River.
In May of 2007, the Access Fund, American Alpine Club, and several other environmental organizations including the Yosemite Fund, Friends of the River, National Parks Conservation Association, California Trout and The Wilderness Society, filed briefs supporting the Park Service’s planning methodology for the Merced River. This broad coalition opposed the strict, numeric limits on visitors in Yosemite that were supported by plaintiffs and the district court. The Access Fund maintains that this approach is impractical and unfair and that adaptive carrying capacity management provisions are a better approach to protecting the environment and visitor access. See here for more background on this issue: www.accessfund.org/display/page/PR/64
The Ninth Circuit, however, sided with the district court and ordered Yosemite National Park to develop a new management plan that sets numeric limits for visitors in Yosemite by September 2009. This recent court decision also blocks several ongoing restoration and rehabilitation projects in the Valley. Unfortunately, the Ninth Circuit’s ruling could result in restricted access (camping, climbing, or even hiking) in all Wild and Scenic River management areas, including Yosemite Valley, Yosemite’s Tuolumne region, the New River Gorge in West Virginia, the Obed River in Tennessee, and other designated and proposed Wild and Scenic Rivers in California, Colorado, Idaho, Utah, Oregon, Washington, Kentucky, and elsewhere.
Williamson Rock Update, CA (03/13/2008)
By Troy Mayr, Friends of Williamson Rock
The Williamson Rock area has been temporarily closed since December 2005 to protect the Mountain Yellow Legged Frog (MYLF), which is an endangered species listed under the Endangered Species Act of 1973. Populations of the frog are known to exist within the closure area. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS) designated approximately 615 acres along Little Rock Creek within the closure area as critical habitat for the MYLF in October 2006. The US Forest Service (USFS), which manages the land, is enforcing the closure.
Friends of Williamson Rock (FoWR) recently met with the local USFS office to discuss the situation at Williamson Rock. Because the closure area prevents access to a portion of the Pacific Crest Trail and Williamson Rock, the process is stalled. The USFS proposed the construction of a bridge across Little Rock Creek as a means of protecting the MYLF and providing access to the Pacific Crest Trail. USFWS rejected this proposal stating, "MYLF was not adequately protected." This information will inform any solution proposed by FoWR.
FoWR also learned that the USFS Office of General Council needs to resolve how to address the continued 'temporary' closure of Williamson Rock. FoWR will follow this issue closely.
The USFS stated that they "applaud FoWR for forming the group. It has made a difference. Frankly, this issue would be ignored without you".
USFS still has not decided what type of environmental documentation is required before a management plan can be implemented for Williamson Rock. FoWR will keep the climbing community informed on the process.
Visit www.williamsonrock.org to stay up to date.
Clarification of Rules Affecting Climbing and Slack Lines in Yosemite National Park, CA (02/14/2008)
National Parks are regulated by laws published in the Code of Federal Regulations (CFR). Each park also has a Superintendent’s Compendium that acts as a supplement to the CFR. For example, Yosemite’s Compendium includes rules controlling everything from wilderness protection and fires to campground rules as well as climbing route closures that protect cliff-nesting raptors. Each park updates its compendium regularly, and recently Yosemite National Park issued an update clarifying its rules governing climbing anchors and ropes as well as slack lines.
Yosemite’s new compendium relaxes the previous rule requiring climbers to obtain wilderness permits for bivouacs on Yosemite’s walls. Additionally, the new compendium specifically addresses climbing gear left on walls and slack lines left in campsites.
The new compendium is now available at:
www.nps.gov/yose/parkmgmt/lawsandpolicies.htm.
Direct link:
www.nps.gov/yose/parkmgmt/loader... (821 kb PDF)
See page 5 and 6 for anchor and rope updates
See page 6 and 7 for slack line updates
For more information contact Yosemite National Park by phone (209)-372-0200 or by mail:
Superintendent’s Compendium
PO Box 577
Yosemite, CA 95389.
Williamson Rock Update, CA (11/16/2007)
By Troy Mayr, Friends of Williamson Rock
Background:
The Williamson Rock area is a well-known recreation site used predominately for rock climbing. It has been used by climbers since the 1960s and is widely regarded as a unique rock climbing resource for the entire Southern California region. The Williamson Rock area has been closed since December 2005 to protect the Mountain Yellow Legged Frog (MYLF), which is an endangered species listed under the Endangered Species Act of 1973. Populations of the frog are known to exist within the closure area. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS) designated approximately 615 acres along Little Rock Creek within the closure area as critical habitat for the MYLF in October 2006.
Current News:
Friends of Williamson Rock (FoWR) is waiting for an official response from the USFS regarding recommendations for access issues at Williamson Rock.
Unofficially, the USFS does not yet know whether an Environmental Assessment (EA) or Environmental Impact Assessment (EIS) (see definitions below) is needed for Williamson Rock.
It has been suggested by the USFS Inter Disciplinary Team (IDT) that an EIS will be required. The IDT was organized specifically to work on the Williamson Rock issue. If an EIS is required, the process normally takes at year or so to complete, depending on whether formal consultation with the USFWS is required.
(On a related note, the USFS is working with USFWS on the protection of the Mountain Yellow Legged Frog in the proximity of Williamson Rock and has set up a detour for a stretch of the Pacific Crest Trail that lies within frog habitat. Recently FoWR learned that the USFWS is requesting formal consultation on that issue. The USFWS is the agency behind the closure, but the USFS is managing the issue because Williamson Rock is located on National Forest land.)
The USFS has indicated that they do not anticipate having funds available through their federally appropriated dollars for either an EA or EIS on the Williamson Rock project in 2008. The USFS will need to consider / secure grants or other forms of funding to continue work on the Williamson Rock issue. FoWR may need to help with funding to expedite the process or to at least keep it moving forward. The cost of an EIS is estimated at $60k–$100k. Finally, if an EIS is required, it will be managed from the USFS headquarters, not the district station with whom we've been working.
Unfortunately (obviously), FoWR believes that the USFS will reissue the closure in December for 2008.
Once FoWR receives an official response we will review the details, make appropriate decisions on what is the best course of action, and proceed from there. We will post new information as it becomes available on our website and through Access Fund channels.
As we've indicated many times, the process is cumbersome and slow, so please continue to be patient.
To join FoWR or for more information, please visit www.williamsonrock.org or email troy@williamsonrock.org
Definitions:
Environmental Assessment (EA): Generally, an EA includes brief discussions of the following: the need for the proposal, alternatives (when there is an unresolved conflict concerning alternative uses of available resources), the environmental impacts of the proposed action and alternatives, and a list of agencies and persons consulted.
Environmental Impact Assessment [Study] (EIS): A National Environmental Protection Act document, an EIS should include discussions of the purpose of and need for the action, alternatives, the affected environment, the environmental consequences of the proposed action, lists of preparers, agencies, organizations and persons to whom the statement is sent, an index, and an appendix (if any).
San Diego Climbers Face Major Climbing Area Closures and Wildfires, CA (11/16/2007)
By Stacy Roberts, Associate Director and President, Allied Climbers of San Diego
San Diego climbers are holding strong and uniting as a community to fight for climbing access, recover after major fires hit Southern California, and to work closely with the Access Fund.
The Allied Climbers of San Diego (ACSD) have been patiently awaiting an Environmental Assessment regarding a proposal by the Cleveland National Forest (CNF) that would deny well-established climbing in order to create nesting habitat for non-threatened golden eagles and prairie falcons based on “historical” nesting of eagles in the vicinity. This proposal will close off climbing areas that have no indication of eagles’ nests ever being present on the cliff faces that climbers use, or within view of climber’s activities.
This action is unprecedented. No conflict exists between climbers and eagles at the areas proposed for closures. The CNF’s proposals encompass 2,640 feet in all directions of supposed historical nests, yet they have refused to provide any evidence to support their claims of these cliffs as “nesting locations.” The outcome of this proposal could have national implications due to the CNF invoking authority for this action under the Migratory Bird Treaty Act (MBTA). The MBTA is an act of commerce that covers over 800 species, some as common as the crow, swallow, and hummingbird. Accordingly, climbing areas across the country could become more susceptible to unnecessary and unjustified access closures because all climbing takes place on crags and in areas that could be “considered” suitable nesting habitat for birds covered under the MBTA.
In other news, due to recent wildfires in much of southern California, all southern California National Forests have been closed until further notice. These fires also affected a majority of San Diego’s crags. ACSD is working to assess damage, educate the San Diego climbing community on the status of these crags, and find out where they can physically help out with restoration, trail maintenance and other volunteer efforts. At this point, local crags that are known to be affected by the fires include Eagle Peak, El Cajon Mtn, and Mt. Woodson. Whether or not the rock has exfoliated on certain routes or entire sections of the rock (due to the extreme temperatures of the fire) is still to be determined. Up to date information will be posted on the Allied Climbers website as it becomes verifiably available: www.allliedclimbers.org.
ACSD has been working closely with the Access Fund to maintain climbing access in San Diego. Recently Brady Robinson (the new executive director of the Access Fund) along with other key Access Fund staff took a trip to San Diego to meet with ACSD members, the Cleveland National Forest, and to check out some of San Diego’s precious climbing destinations. Unfortunately, their visit coincided with the fires, but before they left, the Access Fund team got a better understanding of the size and significance of the areas that are being threatened, the commitment of the San Diego climbing community to stand up for their recreational user rights, and of course they managed to squeeze in a little climbing as well.
As we continue to wait on the Environmental Assessment from the CNF, the Access Fund and ACSD will continue to suggest reasonable solutions to the Forest Service. For important background information on this issue and to see the AF’s and the ACSD’s position on this issue please go to: www.alliedclimbers.org/cnf_timeline.php.
Cleveland National Forest Access Threat Update, CA (10/11/2007)
By Stacy Roberts, Associate Director and President, Allied Climbers of San Diego
San Diego climbers are anxiously awaiting an Environmental Assessment regarding a proposal by the Cleveland National Forest (CNF) that would deny well-established climbing in order to create nesting habitat for non-threatened golden eagles and prairie falcons based on historical nesting of eagles in the vicinity. In one instance, these speculative preserves would be established where eagles haven’t nested in well over 15 years! The move would close off nearby climbing cliffs that have no indication of eagle nests ever being present on the cliff faces.
The ACSD, in concert with the Access Fund, is trying to preserve climbing access by working with the CNF on a reasonable solution. For important background information and to see the AF’s and the ACSD’s position on this issue please go to www.alliedclimbers.org/cnf_timeline.php.
The ACSD invites all climbers to understand why the Access Fund and the ACSD oppose these measures in their current form. This is a national forest issue with national, precedent-setting potential. Stay tuned.
The Access Fund is coming to town—the AF’s Executive Director, Policy Director, and Associate Programs Director will be visiting us at the Allied Climbers of San Diego (ACSD) membership meeting on October 23. Please check www.alliedclimbers.org for the location and time of this very important event.
Cave Rock, NV (08/29/2007)
On August 27, the 9th Circuit Court of Appeals upheld a US Forest Service (USFS) ban on rock climbing at Lake Tahoe's Cave Rock in Nevada, rejecting arguments by the Access Fund that the ban enacted in early 2005 by the USFS is unconstitutional because it closes public lands for religious purposes. The Access Fund does not agree with the court’s justification of this closure to climbing while all other users—hikers, picnickers, site-seers, and highway users—have been permitted to continue to use Cave Rock. The Access Fund is carefully reviewing the court’s opinion and options for short and long term action.
Cleveland National Forest Access Threat Update, CA (08/15/2007)
By Jeff Brown, Executive Director Allied Climbers of San Diego
A proposal by the Cleveland National Forest (CNF) would deny well-established recreational climbing in order to create nesting habitat for non-threatened eagles and prairie falcons. These speculative preserves would be established where no golden eagles nest within close proximity or view of climbing activities, and where prairie falcons continue to nest successfully.
The Allied Climbers of San Diego (ACSD), in concert with the Access Fund, are working to preserve climbing access and work with the CNF on a reasonable solution. For more background on this issue see www.alliedclimbers.org/. ACSD’s formal statement of complaint can be found here: www.alliedclimbers.org/pdf/FSoC.pdf and Access Fund comments here: www.accessfund.org/pdf/USFS_MBTA.pdf and www.alliedclimbers.org/pdf/AF_LETTER.pdf
The ACSD invites all climbers to follow this important access threat created by the CNF’s climbing closure proposals by visiting ACSD’s website to access a timeline of the CNF’s proposals and to understand why these measures are being opposed by the Access Fund and ACSD in their current form. In early September the CNF will release an Environmental Assessment for public review and comment. This is a National Forest issue with national precedent-setting potential, so please stay tuned for the Access Fund's and ACSD's evaluation of this anxiously awaited document.
Re-Cap of Grand-Opening Event (07/16/2007)
INTRO (Access Fund Version): ACSD’s official grand opening to the public was a huge success! Over 140 people showed up, joined as members, and helped us celebrate San Diego’s first climbing non-profit organization dedicated to keeping San Diego climbing open for future generations. Support and donations from vendors and individuals, allowed us to generate over $5,000! These much needed funds will go toward purchasing tools for service projects, paying for costs associated with working with public land managers on access issues, maintaining our website, and of course organizing more projects, events and fun things for our members to participate in. Whether you contributed the minimum amount or a whole lot more, you are playing an important part in San Diego’s climbing future. Thanks again to all our supporting vendors and for joining the ACSD. If you did join as a member, please plan on attending our first public meeting at REI San Diego (5556 Copley Dr. 92111) on Tuesday, July 24th. If you didn’t make it to the Opening, and want to join as a member and find out more, either fill out your form on our website, or come by the public meeting. See you then! www.alliedclimbers.org
Williamson Rock Update, CA (06/18/2007)
By Troy Mayr, Friends of Williamson Rock
As you may be aware, the Angeles National Forest has requested public comments on a proposal, which were due June 6th. The proposal is to construct a trail from the Angeles Crest Highway to Williamson Rock, located in the upper reaches of Little Rock Creek within the Angeles National Forest. The proposal will analyze reopening the popular recreation site and rock climbing area to the public, while protecting the mountain yellow-legged frog (MYLF) and its critical habitat.
The information can be found at: www.fs.fed.us/r5/angeles/news/2007/news-2007-05-10-comments-on-williamson-rock-access.shtml and www.fs.fed.us/r5/angeles/documents/final-williamson-rock-scoping-ltr.pdf
Curious of how our (your) response to the USFS Scoping Letter / proposal was received?
Troy Mayr spoke with their primary contact at the USFS and asked him how the climber response was going. His response, "I give up. There are 100's, they are pouring in like rain!"
So a huge thank you to all who took the time to write!
The USFS did receive a letter that could have a negative affect for climbers (which was expected). While the group who wrote doesn't appear to be against climbing in any way, they are adamant about protecting endangered species above all else (recreation etc.).
In short they will push for a full E.I.S. as opposed to an E.A. Here are the pertinent definitions.
EA: Environmental Assessment - Generally, an EA includes brief discussions of the following: the need for the proposal; alternatives (when there is an unresolved conflict concerning alternative uses of available resources); the environmental impacts of the proposed action and alternatives; and a listing of agencies and persons consulted.
EIS: Environmental Impact Assessment (Study) - A National Environmental Protection Act (NEPA) document. An EIS, should include discussions of the purpose of and need for the action, alternatives, the affected environment, the environmental consequences of the proposed action, lists of preparers, agencies, organizations and persons to whom the statement is sent, an index, and an appendix (if any).
The USFS I.D. Team will review the letters received and make a decision as to how to proceed. In all it’s off to a great start but the process is cumbersome and slow, so please continue be patient.
Friends of Williamson Rock will keep all up to date as details continue to unfold.
Background: The Williamson Rock area is a well-known recreation site used predominately for rock climbing. It has been used by climbers since the 1960's and is widely regarded as a unique rock climbing resource for the entire Southern California region.
The Williamson Rock area has been temporarily closed since December 2005 to protect the frog, which is an endangered species listed under the Endangered Species Act of 1973. Populations of the frog are known to exist within the closure area. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service designated approximately 615 acres along Little Rock Creek within the closure area as critical habitat for the MYLF in October 2006.
For more information, please visit www.williamsonrock.org or email troy@williamsonrock.org
Access Fund Joins Broad Coalition Opposing Numerical Limits on Access in Yosemite National Park (05/15/2007)
Climbing Advocates Sign Amicus Brief in U.S. Court of Appeals Supporting Efforts to Protect the Merced River and Visitor Access in Yosemite
The Access Fund announced on May 10th that it has joined a group of seven leading conservation and recreational organizations to take legal action supporting a specific point in the Yosemite National Park’s Merced River Management Plan—adaptive carrying capacity management provisions.
The Merced River Plan, on hold since a District Court ruling in 2006 and currently in the 9th Circuit Court of Appeals, addresses use capacity in Yosemite Valley as a means to preserve and protect the Merced Wild & Scenic River. At issue is a District Court ruling that imposes numeric limits on visitors without the benefit of resource-based indicators.
The Access Fund maintains that this approach is impractical and unfair and that adaptive carrying capacity management provisions are a better management approach to protect the environment and visitor access.
For climbers, the Merced River litigation could be precedent setting concerning the establishment of user and carrying capacity restrictions for Wild and Scenic River areas across the country. The 9th Circuit Court ruling could result in restricted climbing access in all Wild and Scenic River management areas including Yosemite Valley, Yosemite’s Tuolumne region, the New River Gorge in West Virginia, the Obed River in Tennessee and other designated and proposed Wild and Scenic Rivers in California, Colorado, Idaho, Utah, Oregon, Washington, Kentucky, and elsewhere.
The Access Fund did not take its involvement in the appeal lightly. In the past the Access Fund has been at odds with Yosemite National Park on a variety of management plans but supports the Merced River Plan because the District Court’s ruling requires a non-adaptive process placing specific but unproven numerical limits on use regardless of need. A better approach is the Merced River Plan’s scientifically sound adaptive carrying capacity management provisions that are based on decades of progress by national experts and professional land managers that would adjust visitor access when needed to prevent environmental harm and correct unacceptable impacts before they become irreversible.
The Access Fund signed onto a “Friends of the Court” brief in the U.S. 9th Circuit Court of Appeals, joining several other organizations including The Yosemite Fund, Friends of the River, the American Alpine Club, National Parks Conservation Association, California Trout and The Wilderness Society.
The Access Fund intends this issue to be resolved through constructive engagement and cooperation. The case will be heard in San Francisco this fall and the Access Fund’s involvement will allow the climbing community to be heard during the appeal process.
For more information, please contact Access Fund Policy Director Jason Keith at 303.545.6772 ext.102 or email at jason@accessfund.org.
Allied Climbers of San Diego Update, CA (05/15/2007)
By Todd Smith, ACSD Access Fund Liaison
The Allied Climbers of San Diego (ACSD) is excited to announce that San Diego’s newest Access Fund Affiliate is off to a great start. On June 29th the ACSD is hosting its inaugural community-building gathering! A location has not yet been selected, so please visit us at www.AlliedClimbers.org to drop us an e-mail asking to be put on our contact list. As soon as party details are available we’ll send you a personal invitation to join us!
ACSD’s mission statement is as follows: "The Allied Climbers of San Diego is a local, environmentally responsible, non-profit organization dedicated to promoting and maintaining access to climbing and outdoor recreation."
ACSD is a diverse group of San Diego climbers unified by a common desire to protect and conserve access to climbing areas both now and for future generations.
ACSD Core Goals:
•Promote & maintain access to San Diego climbing areas
• Provide volunteer opportunities for the climbing community
•Educate the public on climbing related and environmental issues
•Work with public and private land managers to create win-win solutions
•Encourage responsible climbing in San Diego
•Document and research San Diego’s climbing and recreational resources
Pinnacles National Monument Seeks Public Input for New General Management Plan, CA (04/19/2007)
The National Park Service at Pinnacles National Monument south of San Francisco, CA has begun revising its general management plan (GMP) which will serve as a “blueprint” to guide the park over the next twenty years.
This new master planning document for Pinnacles, home to hundreds of rock climbs, will identify important park issues, visitor opportunities, and program objectives many of which could affect current climbing policies www.pinnacles.org/climbing_info/index.htm. For more information on the GMP process, see www.nps.gov/pinn/parkmgmt/planning.htm
A draft GMP is expected for public review in fall 2008 with a final GMP scheduled for completion in 2009.
Williamson Rock, CA Update (04/19/2007)
By Troy Mayr
The USFS is currently in the process of preparing a scoping letter. Once the scoping letter is released, this marks the start of the NEPA process for the Williamson Rock and vicinity.
The scoping letter prompts public comment and sets the parameters for what the USFS will consider. Positive and detailed comments from the climbing community are encouraged. Please visit www.williamsonrock.org and join our mailing list (if you haven't already).
When more details are made available to FoWR we will send out an e-mail to all of our mailing list members.
Thanks for your support!
Proposed Seasonal Closures to Protect Nesting Raptors, CA (03/12/2007)
By Kirsten Winter, Cleveland National Forest Biologist
*This is a new scoping effort, and a new comment period has been started. Comments will be accepted until April 16, 2007. For letter writing tips, please visit: www.accessfund.org/display/page/AA/54
The Cleveland National Forest (Cleveland NF) is proposing seasonal area closures to protect golden eagles and prairie falcons at three locations.
The Cleveland NF is initiating the scoping process under the requirements of the National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA) of 1970. Scoping is the means by which the Forest Service identifies the important environmental and social issues to be considered in developing and analyzing a proposed action. Your site-specific comments are requested to help us identify relevant issues, evaluate the proposed action, and develop possible alternatives.
The proposed seasonal area closures were initially proposed for NEPA analysis under a categorical exclusion, as summarized in a scoping letter dated December 11, 2006, and sent to local user groups. Based on public input and a further refinement of the proposed action, the Cleveland NF has chosen to undertake an environmental assessment to analyze the proposed action. The public will have 30 days to provide responses to this scoping letter. The Cleveland NF will then prepare an environmental assessment.
The public will have 30 days to comment on the analysis contained in the environmental assessment. The proposed action may be modified based on scientifically and legally sound information that is received during any of the comment periods. After considering the comments received on the environmental assessment, the Cleveland NF will make a decision.
All comments submitted in response to the December 11, 2006 scoping letter will be retained in the project file for the current proposed action. These comments will be considered during analysis and do not need to be resubmitted.
For more detailed information, including the scoping letter and maps describing the proposed action, please see the Cleveland National Forest website at www.fs.fed.us/r5/cleveland/projects/projects/seasonal-closures/index.shtml
Williamson Rock, CA Closure Update (01/11/2007)
By Troy Mayr, Access Fund Board of Directors, President Friends of Williamson Rock.
The U.S. Forest Service (USFS) is preparing a memorandum of understanding (MOU) between the USFS and FoWR. A memorandum of understanding (MOU) is a document describing a bilateral agreement between parties. It expresses a convergence of will between the parties, indicating an intended common line of action, rather than a legal commitment.
Friends of Williamson Rock (FoWR) will present the USFS a draft scoping letter pursuant to National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA). This letter will describe the proposed action regarding the preparation of an Environmental Assessment (EA) on the long-term management of Williamson Rock and the potential for reopening access to climbing activities. The following proposed alternatives shall be included:
•Dry Season Only Access (No flowing water in stream) - Preferred alternative includes monitoring and maintenance, enforcement of seasonal closure, signage, human waste management and parking controls.
•Restricted activity under limited conditions
•Permanent closure
•No project alternative - Return to conditions prior to closure (not a viable option)
The no project alternative is included in the document to serve as a baseline for other alternatives and is required of all NEPA documents. In the EA, the potential impacts for each alternative must be analyzed. The no project alternative states what the condition or environmental impacts would be in the event the proposed project is not carried out.
The scoping process will include an internal USFS review followed by a 30-day public scoping period.
As previously stated, the process is required to allow the potential re-opening of Williamson Rock, which has been closed to public access due to designation of critical habitat for the mountain yellow legged frog. Throughout the course of this lengthy NEPA and Endangered Species Act consultation ongoing closure of Williamson Rock should be anticipated and the climbing community should actively discourage its use to maintain current agency/FoWR relations.
FoWR expects this process to result in ongoing dialog with the USFS, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and the general public - resulting in a plan that meets the needs of all concerned within the parameters of NEPA, Forest Service Guidelines and the Federal Endangered Species Act. This will also further the intent of FoWR to move forward with the NEPA process and maintain cooperative relations with the U.S. Forest Service as well as the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service.
We strongly encourage you to join the FoWR mailing list by visiting www.williamsonrock.org
Human Waste Management on the Whitney Trail, CA (01/11/2007)
By Garry Oye, District Ranger, White Mountain & Mount Whitney Ranger Districts Inyo National Forest.
In 1873 John Muir climbed Mount Whitney. Over 100 years later, the Whitney Trail cuts through a place we now call the John Muir Wilderness. It has become one of the most popular wildernesses in the National Wilderness Preservation System. Each year 16,000 people attempt to climb and summit Mt. Whitney at an elevation of 14,497 feet above sea level.
With all of these climbers comes the challenge of what to do with their human waste. Toilets have been in place along the trail since the 1960s. Despite several renovations and retro-fits, the dehydrating toilets never functioned very well. A helicopter was needed to fly 4,000 pounds of human waste out each year. Helicopters and toilet buildings compromise the area’s wilderness character.
In 2004, a voluntary pack-out program was instituted. Climbers were asked to pack their human waste to Whitney Portal Trailhead using pack-out kits.
In 2006, Whitney climbers voluntarily packed 3,600 pounds of their human waste out to the trailhead. With the success of this pack out program, there is now a safe and sanitary way for each individual to deal with their own human waste.
In late November of this year Forest Service rangers removed the toilet at Outpost Camp. Earlier in the summer, Park Service rangers removed the toilet near the summit. Forest Service rangers plan to remove the Trail Camp toilet in 2007 and require all climbers to pack their waste to the trailhead.
“I want to thank the Whitney climbers and rangers for helping find a solution to the human waste challenge. I think we now have a system that is workable for today as well as into the future,” said District Ranger Garry Oye.
For more information please contact Garry Oye at (760) 873-2464.
Editors note: the success of the Indian Creek Wag Bag Movement—started by the Access Fund and continues to be managed by the AF Affiliate, Friends of Indian Creek—includes self serve distribution of human waste bags at kiosks around the park.
This program is applicable across the nation at various climbing areas. For more information, contact Jason Keith, Access Fund Policy Director at Jason@accessfund.org.
The Access Fund encourages the use of human waste bags when toilets are not available. They are a sanitary, no mess, no smell solution that are easy to use and pack out.
AF Corporate Partner RESTOP manufactures the bags and sells them online www.restop.com. Metolius, Mountain Gear, and REI also carry similar human waste systems.
Tollhouse Rock, CA (12/15/2006)
By Patrick Paul, Southern Sierra Climbers, Association
In recent months, a new landowner has put up a gate at the intersection of Tollhouse road and the unpaved access road which has been the traditional way to the top of Tollhouse Rock for climbers. Tollhouse features dozens of one to four pitch free climbs and has been a popular winter climbing area for locals from Fresno, Bakersfield and the greater Southern California area for decades and sits on public land.
Prior to installing the gate, the landowner had verbally accosted some climbers, threatened to have people arrested, or tried to intimidate climbers in other ways. The access road has been used for years by climbers, four-wheelers, hang-gliders, hunters, and youthful revelers from the nearby communities of Prather and Tollhouse. The landowner has complained that his guests' cars have been vandalized, people have been firing shotguns and rifles near his home, and that a great deal of trash has been strewn in the area.
Tollhouse Rock is on Forest Service land and the F.S. claims that only a small portion of the road is privately owned. However, at this time it is unclear whether the landowner has a legal right to block the road or whether the Forest Service can legally compel him to keep it open. At least two gates have been erected and then torn out by persons unknown. Climbers are advised to use the longer power line road that lies directly west of the private road until either legalities can be ascertained, or the landowner can be reasoned with and an agreement met.
Lawsuit Derails Yosemite National Park Management Plans (11/14/2006)
On November 3rd a federal judge ruled on a lawsuit filed by the Friends of Yosemite Valley www.bigwalls.net/climb/camp4yosemite/pages/2COMPLAI2.html resulting in a stoppage of "all ground disturbing projects in Yosemite" except for some minor road maintenance on the Valley Loop Road. What this means is that the National Park Service (NPS) is prevented from continuing the Lodge redevelopment project or Camp 4 expansion until a new Merced River Plan is developed and survives any future litigation. Last Friday's decision ruled that the NPS must prepare another plan that protects the wild and scenic Merced River before proceeding with any construction activities. The NPS had argued that it should be allowed to proceed with multiple construction projects within the river corridor.
Under the Wild and Scenic River Act, Yosemite National park must have a plan to regulate development near the banks of the Merced. In 1997 the Merced River Plan became the central focus of the debates about Yosemite’s future when it flooded and wiped out campgrounds, lodging and parking areas. The Friends of Yosemite Valley felt the Merced River Plan failed to adequately protect the river corridor, and sued. In 2004 the U.S. 9th Circuit Court of Appeals directed NPS officials to revise their Merced River plan, but according to the recent court ruling Yosemite National Park failed to redraft the plan in a way adequately protects the river.
For more, see www.fresnobee.com/263/story/11668.html. Another hearing is scheduled for next January but it looks likely that it might take the NPS another two years to finish their latest Merced River Plan before they may commence work on the Lodge redevelopment or Camp 4 expansion. For more information, contact AF Policy Director Jason Keith at jason@accessfund.org.
Lovers Leap, CA (11/14/2006)
By Paul Minault, Northern California Regional Coordinator
Climbers topping out at Northern California's Lovers Leap may find not the peaceful alpine summit they expected but a roaring dust cloud of off-road motorcycles under a proposal by the El Dorado National Forest.
A designated motorbike trail to the summit already exists, but it currently sees little motorcycle use. The Forest Service is engaged in a formal motorized route designation process, which will include the closure of some existing routes. This process will determine the fate of the Leap trail and other motorized trails.
If the Leap trail survives the designation process, then climbers can expect increased use of this trail due to the closure of other trails and increased motorized use of the forest in general.
More information on the Forest Service route designation process is available at www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado/projects/route/. The alignment of the trail shows in dark red on the Forest Service trail map at www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado/documents/route/maps/enf_se_pyramidpeak.pdf.
The Access Fund is preparing a letter to the Forest Service opposing continued motorized use of this trail and encourages climbers to contact the Forest Service in opposition to the trail.
Letters, emails and phone calls should be directed to:
Tony Scardina, OHV Route Designation Leader,
Eldorado National Forest, 100 Forni Rd.
Placerville, CA 95667
ascardina@fs.fed.us
530-621-5276.
The Forest Service expects to issue a draft environmental document in December for the route designation process, and this will be another opportunity for climbers to submit comments on the proposal.
San Diego Update (10/12/2006)
By Dave Kennedy, Regional Coordinator San Diego County
Santee Boulders
The very popular Santee Boulders, long known to be on private property, now see housing development threatening access. Local climbers are imploring the city of San Diego to set aside the parcel containing the boulders for mitigation. It has proven difficult to penetrate the multi-level bureaucracy overlaying the development plans. Meanwhile, the nearby Magnolia Boulders (which are actually owned by the city of Santee) are seeing much surrounding development; however the top of the hill has been set aside for recreation and is now under the control of the State Fish & Game Dept.
El Cajon Mountain
Through many meetings and letters, the USFS has rescinded a slated seasonal raptor closure of El Cajon Mountain. The meetings have consisted of relationship building, familiarizing USFS staff with climbing and the climbing community, and remaining patient. A decision regarding other crags with raptor nests is forthcoming. To continue to build on these relationships, a San Diego Alliance of Climber’s Adopt-a-Crag is scheduled for Nov. 11, when climbers will clean the El Cajon Mt. trailhead and possibly do some trail work. In addition, the climbing community has united against unilateral removal by one individual of placed bolts (which has occurred here in the past). The climbing community believes that once bolts have been placed they should not be removed unless there is consensus among the local climbing community favoring their removal. We will work very hard to ensure that this standard is practiced by all in the San Diego climbing community.
Other News Tom Donnelly has come on board as a co-Regional Coordinator for San Diego County, and as co-head of the San Diego Alliance of Climbers. Fall through Spring is the best time to climb in SD, and with a new guidebook due shortly, don't hesitate to come and sample some of the more than 2000 routes the county has to offer, from boulder problems to 6-pitch climbs. 2006 has seen much happen with regard to San Diego climbing access, and the year's not over yet!