California

Access Fund work in California

Strategic planning for Access Fund participation assisting the National Park Service at Yosemite appeal a court ruling that would severely restrict climbing access in Yosemite Valley, as well as other Wild and Scenic River areas with climbing resources such as Tuolumne and the Obed in TN. (2007)
Authored Access Fund letter and Action Alert setting forth why the Access Fund does not support the Cleveland National Forest’s announced proposed seasonal closures from December 1 – May 30 a to protect Golden Eagles, Prairie Falcons based on the MBTA. Assisted in the start-up of the Allied Climbers of San Diego. (2007)
Provided organizational support and incorporating document templates for the Southern Sierra Climbers Association, CA (2007)
Provided guidance and facilitated communication regarding the transfer of leadership of the Bigfoot Country Climbers Coalition (2007)
Met with Friends of Williamson Rock, CA regarding recent closure of climbing area due to the presence of an Endangered Species, organizational issues, and discussed strategies regarding working with the USFS and the USFWS to ease the restriction. (2006)
Strategize and advised local climber regarding climbing at Dearhorn, outside of San Diego, California including how to approach a private landowner and how to address potential liability concerns. (2006)
On-going communications with local activists and the National Guard at Cerro Romualdo, including a letter of support in favor of activist’s position to allow climbing and solutions to National Guard’s fears of allowing climbing (liability and environmental impacts), the National Guard is reconsidering its closure order to climbing. (2006)
Provided advice and discussed strategy with the Eastern Sierra Climbers Coalition to organize and announce a voluntary raptor closure at Clarks Canyon near Bishop, California. (2006)
Conducted research concerning a land sale of the Santee Boulders in Southern CA to assess strategies for continued access (2006)
Drafted letter from the Access Fund on behalf of a California Regional Coordinator and the San Diego Alliance of Climbers (SANDAC) to the Cleveland National Forest regarding appropriate raptor closure guidelines in the San Diego area (2006)
Strategy-building around addressing raptor issues in remote climbing area outside San Diego on USFS land. (2006)
Support letter on behalf of the Friends of Williamson Rock and continued on-going communications regarding recent closure of climbing area due to the presence of an Endangered Species and the formation of the organization. (2006)
Communications with the US Forest Service and local climbing activists to improve eroding climbing access trails at Tahquitz Rock. (2006)
Continued involvement with Yosemite climbers and the National Park Service regarding several land management planning initiaitives that could affect climber experiences in Yosemite, including the Camp 4 remodel, Tuolumne Meadows projects, Merced River Wild and Scenic River quota issues and general climbing management concerns such as fixed anchors on El Capitan and bear boxes for wall climbers. (2006)
Defended the interests of climbers in meetings with several Yosemite National Park (YNP) land managers and planners regarding a host of management plans that could affect climbing access or the climbing experience. These NPS planning initiatives in YNP include a Camp 4 remodel, the Tuolumne River and Meadows Plan, the Merced River Wild and Scenic River quota issues, an El Capitan Meadows Restoration Plan and general climbing management concerns such as fixed anchors/ropes on El Capitan and bear boxes for wall climbers which the Access Fund provided a grant for in 2005. (2006)
Supported and advised California Regional Coordinator in meetings and dialogue with San Diego USFS and local stakeholders regarding appropriate raptor closures for El Cajon Mt. Wall and Corte Madera (2006)
Assistance with the Yosemite Climbing Association's Yosemite Facelift 2006 regarding a massive clean-up in Yosemite Valley. (2006)
Meetings and other communication with National Park Service planners in Yosemite National Park to ensure that climber interests are represented in various park management plans for Camp 4, general Yosemite Valley, and the Tuolumne area. (2006)
Ongoing work with Friends of Williamson Rock including strategizing how to approach the NEPA process and best organizational structure to address the year-old closure (that will probably be a few more years before resolution) of the area due to the presence of endangered species, Mountain-Legged Yellow Frog. (2006)
Communication and strategizing with local climbers regarding a recent road closure to Tollhouse in the Southern Sierra Mountains, California In recent months, a new landowner has put up a gate at the intersection of Tollhouse road and the unpaved access road which has been the traditional way to the top of Tollhouse Rock for climbers. Tollhouse, which is on USFS land, features dozens of one to four pitch free climbs and has been a popular winter climbing area for locals from Fresno, Bakersfield and the greater Southern California area for decades. (2006)
Administrative comments on the Merced Wild & Scenic River Management Plan. (2005)
Work with Eastern California Climbers Coalition regarding working with the USFS and funding for compostable toilet (2005)
Discussions with the NPS at Yosemite National Park, CA regarding plans for Camp 4 and Access Fund grant support for a climbing management intern, bear boxes placed strategically near the base of climbs, and a new informational kiosk at the base of El Capitan. (2005)
Work with local climbing activists, Humboldt County Parks, the US Forest Service (USFS), and National Park Service (NPS) in Northern California to advocate on behalf of climbers and keep Lost Rocks, Natural Bridge, and Moonstone Beach open for climbing and bouldering (2005)
Meetings with the National Park Service in Yosemite National Park, CA regarding general climbing management issues, to represent climbers on plans to “improve” Camp 4, assist on a recently-approved AF climbing conservation grant to buy bear boxes specifically for Valley climbers, and to help out on the Yosemite Climbing Association’s enormous park-wide cleanup that collected nearly 7,500 pounds of garbage (2005)
Work with local climber to determine strategy to reopen Cerro Remauldo crag. Crag is on land leased by the National Guard and was closed due to liability and security concerns (2005)
Work with local climber to convince state parks to allow bouldering at Piute Buttes, in the Antelope Valley. Area is closed to backcountry use due to cultural resource concerns (2005)
Communication with local climber regarding cultural resource issues at Sunset Rocks. (2005)
Work with local climbing activists, National Guard, and local politicians California to advocate on behalf of climbers and keep Cerro Romouldo open for climbing. (2005)
Outreach and consultation with local climbing activists and the USFS regarding the presence of the endangered Mountain Yellow-Legged Frog in Little Rock Creek near Williamson Rock that has lead to a temporary closure of Williamson Rock. We are working with local activists to determine if climbing activity, which is not directly adjacent to the streambed where the Frog resides, interferes with the critical habitat necessary for the Frog's proliferation. (2005)
Continued communication with Humboldt, CA climbing activist Bennett Barthelemy regarding proposed USFS plans to prohibit climbing at Natural Bridge near Hayfork, CA and possible NPS plans to restrict climbing at Lost Rocks in Redwoods National Park, CA. Both of these issues relate to Native American cultural (“religious”) concerns on public lands (2005)
Began discussions with the USFS and climbing community regarding planning efforts at Tahquitz Rock, California that will assist climbers by seeking to improve highly-eroded climber access and descent trails and foster a positive working relationship with the USFS in southern California (2005)
Drafting comments for revisions to the Forest Plan in the San Bernardino National Forest in Southern California. (2004)
Meetings with Yosemite NP, CA officials regarding climbing management issues. (2004)
Issued an Action Alert on a proposed fixed anchor ban in designated wilderness areas in the San Bernardino National Forest. The ban would include the Tahquitz and Suicide, CA climbing areas; communication with Forest planners to discuss the ban and suggest possible alternatives. (2004)
Added four new Regional Coordinators including one in Southern Cal. to our network of fifty around the country. Volunteer regional coordinators work to preserve climbing access in their areas. (2004)
Regional coordinator work: California: organized clean-ups; organized response to proposed fixed anchor ban in San Bernardino NF; met with State Park officials to discuss reopening of Auburn Quarry. (2004)
Provided guidance to climbers from: San Diego, CA to resolve organizational concerns and develop strategies to more effectively address access issues at diverse climbing areas. (2004)
Provided guidance to climbers from: Northern California to form the Bigfoot Country Climbers’ Association. (2004)
Climbing preservation grants awarded in 2004: Eastern Sierra Climbers Coalition, California. ESCC was awarded a grant to help pay for organizational and start-up expenses for the newly formed grassroots climber’s advocacy group. ESCC will focus on proactive resolution of climbing management issues, dialogue with land managers, education and outreach to local and visiting climbers, stewardship of the area’s resources, and representing climbers in the eastern Sierra. (2004)
Worked with cultural resource consultants to find positive solutions to protect archaeological and historical values at Happy Boulders (CA) (2003)
Opposed USFS climbing ban at Cave Rock, CA. Successful advocacy work extended the public comment period on the Cave Rock closure through March 2003. Obtained significant Congressional support for our work to keep Cave Rock open; obtained Congressional support letters from the NV delegation inquiring into the Cave Rock issue. Rallied many members of the climbing community in support of AF's efforts to keep Cave Rock open. Obtained initial indication from members of Congress that they will support oversight hearings looking into public land closures based on sacred site conflicts. Filed an administrative appeal urging the Forest Service to reconsider their management actions. Filed a lawsuit with Nevada Federal Court to reverse unconstitutional actions by the US Forest Service. (2003)
Drafted administrative comments and related advocacy work on management plans for various public land units across the country, including Yosemite National Park and Natural Bridge (CA) (2003)
Happy and Sad Boulders, CA. Worked with the Bishop Field Office of the BLM on climbing related issues on the Volcanic Tableland. Attended an interagency meeting in Bishop to provide input on bouldering management issues. (2003)
Joshua Tree, CA. Awarded a $3,000 research grant for a wilderness rock climbing study. Using predictive simulation, the purpose of the study is to assess the merit of the Park's proposed fixed anchor permitting process. (2003)
Human waste management projects received $11,500 to support toilet installation or maintenance in two areas including the Pleasant Valley climber's campground, CA (2003)
Provided a $1,000 grant to the grassroots climber advocacy group, Friends of Joshua Tree for continued advocacy work in Joshua Tree National Park. The group provides a critical communication link between Park officials and climbers. (2003)
Organized and attended a climbers meeting in Bishop, CA which led to the formation of a local climber organization to represent climbers on the east side of the Sierra. (2003)
Attended a ""bouldering workgroup"" meeting in Joshua Tree, CA. The workgroup consists of park officials, manufacturing representatives, outdoor retailers and boulderers. The group will focus on climber education and stewardship. (2003)
Worked with cultural resource consultants to find positive solutions to protect archaeological and historical values at Happy Boulders (CA) (2002)
Happy and Sad Boulders, CA. Work with the Bishop Field Office of the BLM on climbing related issues and the development of a Resource Management Plan. (2002)
Human waste management projects received $4,000 to support toilet installation or maintenance in three areas including and the Happy Boulders, CA. (2002)